Bonzour!
I glimpse the Seychelles through my aircraft window, and instantly I have regrets. Why am I only spending four days in this tiny tropical haven? Why didn’t I allow more time?
The lure of Africa has gripped me once again. The Seychelles is the first stop of a five week, five country East African adventure that also includes Kenya, Uganda, Comoros and Malawi.
Seychelles is the perfect start. It’s a gentle country, the people are welcoming, their smiles are wide. With only 120,000 people it’s Africa’s least populated country and also its tiniest. The archipelago consists of 115 islands scattered across 452 sq.km of Indian Ocean. Only 33 islands are inhabited. The largest and most developed island of Seychelles is Mahé, home to 90% of the population, and me, for the next four days.
It was Vasco da Gama who first sighted the islands in 1502. Traders and pirates passed through, however it wasn’t until 1756 that the French took possession, naming the islands after Jean Moreau de Séchelles, Louis XV’s Minister of Finance. Before being discovered by Europeans, Seychelles was uninhabited. The colony was later surrendered to Britain. In 1976 independence was granted.
How many shades of blue can there be? I ponder as I gaze across the pristine white sands, over turquoise seas to a cerulean sky filled with swirling clouds. Where do Dulux colour namers go for their inspiration? No better place than Seychelles where various bays and coves conjure a laid-back ambience. Bel Ombré blue, Beau Belle blue, Eden Island blue, would all evoke a sense of peace and calm to any room.
My little guest house is located by the water. Days begin and end with a walk along the beach. When not beach walking, wave gazing or spotting seashells on Seychelles seashore, there are adventures to be had. There is jet-skiing, snorkeling, parasailing, kayaking and canoeing. However I seek my thrills riding the local buses. The bus drivers, I’ve decided, are aspiring racing-car drivers. Up the mountain the buses labour, then down the other side they shimmy. With each hairpin bend we swerve left, swerve right. Buttocks pressed against buttocks; especially when seated next to generously proportioned African ladies. The windows are all open, dreadlocks and braids flapping in the cool breeze.
Victoria, Seychelles’ capital, is a pretty, bustling city. It’s a 30 minute bus trip from Beau Vallon, where I’m staying. Although Queen Victoria didn’t set foot in the Seychelles, her great, great, great, great grandson, Prince William and his bride Kate Middleton did, choosing one of Seychelles’ quieter islands for their honeymoon.
Saturday is market day in Victoria, the Seychellois come from all over the island to sell their wares. Tropical fruits are colorfully displayed and behind rows of shimmery fish, white egrets skulk. On Sundays the mood of the city changes. The city’s cathedral, temple, mosque and churches fill with well-dressed families. Passing the Pentecostal Assembly of Seychelles I’m am lured by the music. Notes of joy fly through the doors and windows, hallelujahs were in abundance. Inside there was singing and swaying as six singers sang to a five-piece band. Palms were raised to heaven.
Next door, the Botanic Gardens, was awash with Pentecostal music. The giant tortoises didn’t seem to mind. Then again who can tell what goes through the mind of a tortoise; though they do love having their necks tickled. Jonathan is the oldest Seychelles tortoise. Hatched in 1932 he’s now 191 years old. He spends his days sleeping, eating and reminiscing when he was young and in love with a teenage mutant ninja turtle.
Back at Beau Vallon, I took a late afternoon stroll. Feeling peckish I’d heard that curried fruit-bat was a popular local dish. In the distance I spotted a food stall complete with bat. It was Madam Servine and Bella her pet fruit-bat. They formed a good team. Bella in charge of advertising and marketing and Madam Servine doing a brisk trade selling tropical fruit. As I peered into Bella’s tiny upside-down face, I thought, who could possibly eat you?
South of Beau Vallon, Bel Ombre is thought to be the site of a buried treasure; treasures plummeted from an Arab ship carrying a princess on her way to marry in Zanzibar, and a Portuguese vessel carrying the Viceroy and Archbishop of Goa. Both vessels were transporting rich cargoes of gold, silver and jewels. The latter being the inspiration of Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island.
French pirate Olivier Levasseur, was known as La Buse, ‘The Buzzard’. Olivier was well-educated; an architect with a promising career. However he decided on a career change and turned to piracy. He amassed a fortune, but eventually was captured by the French and hanged in 1730. Just as he ascended the scaffold he tossed a note, a cryptogram and said ‘Find my treasure he who can’. The treasure is estimated to be worth $1 billion. The search continues.
Too soon my four days are up. I’ve seen much of the island, dined on delicious seafood and have been lulled to sleep each night by the sounds of the waves. I’ve met many friendly locals keen to share their stories and became nodding acquaintances with many more. So shall I return to the Seychelles? Maybe. But next time I’ll stay at Bel Ombre, and maybe I’ll pack a spade.
Still travelling
Ros